Born in 1933 in Terengganu, the daughter of a wealthy merchant and a Singapore nyonya, late Madam Lee Kim Choo's father insisted of giving her away immediately after her birth. She shared in an interview, "According to the astrologer, my stars clashed severely with my father and that she would bring him ill fortune, so I had to leave them." Desperate, late Kim Choo's mother quickly wrote to her mother in Singapore and begged her to take the baby. She was then raised in a strict Peranakan household. Her grandmother even gave her baby to her sister to take care of me, which fostered in me an eternal love and respect for her." She said this with tears in her eyes.
The family struggled with debt and made do by selling local kuih and foraging for unwanted vegetables local pasar. To support herself and her family, Madam Lee worked at a coffee shop and married a man she met there, despite her family's objections. She married at 17, hoping that love would change her husband’s gambling habits. However, their earnings from selling chap chai png(rice with vegetable stew) from ages 21 to 29 were insufficient to sustain them.
Seeing her plight, a sympathetic neighbor suggested she focus on her Nyonya kuih, saying, “Selling Ang ku kueh won't bring much success, but I remember your Nyonya rice dumplings—I'm sure you can make something out of it.”
Guided by her grandmother's recipe, she made a bold decision and began a new chapter by selling kueh chang babi or rice dumplings as a humble stall under a Banyan tree at the intersection of Joo Chiat Place and Everitt Road. She noted, “Selling Nyonya rice dumplings didn't bring much fortune, as it was just enough to cover my children’s education fees.” Despite the challenges, such as getting drenched in the rain, this venture marked the beginning of a brighter future.
Not deterred by unpredictable weather, she once had to borrow money from a local loan shark to set up a stall with a tent and tables to keep the business going. However, they were frequently disturbed by the authorities and asked to leave. With the help of Dr. Fong Kim Heng, a pioneering political figure, my grandmother secured a bank loan to acquire a commercial shop at 60 Joo Chiat Place following Singapore’s independence. This pivotal move enabled Madam Lee Kim Choo to continue selling rice dumplings even during adverse weather conditions.
Madam Lee Kim Choo's grandmother was originally from China, adapted to the local culture and began wearing Peranakan Nyonya clothes, influenced by the local Chinese community, becoming a beloved figure in the neighborhood. She was nicknamed Bibik Kueh Bakol and her secret recipe made the kueh bakol stay soft for weeks.
Collectively, the third-generation business owners of Kim Choo Kueh Chang—Desmond Wong (left), Edmond Wong (center), and Raymond Wong (right)—are taking on their roles as custodians. Each of them is committed to preserving and growing the evolving business, focusing on different pillars according to their respective passions, strengths, and interests within the business.
Desmond, the Director of Operations and Quality Control, primarily focuses on the business’s process design. His aim is to ensure that 20 years down the road, customers will say, “This is the same thing I tasted many years ago. It tastes just as good, whether it’s the bak chang, kueh, or Peranakan food.” With this goal in mind, he is dedicated to creating the right processes to reproduce these tastes consistently at any location and at any time, reaching a wider audience worldwide.
Edmond, the Director of Business Development and CSR, is deeply interested in heritage and community aspects. To realize this vision, they work together to provide training initiatives and employment opportunities to individuals from diverse backgrounds, including persons with disabilities, LGBTQ+ communities, and those facing socio-economic challenges. In doing so, he aims to create an environment where everyone experiences a profound sense of inclusion and actively contributes to the collective heritage. This reflects the kind gestures his late grandmother instilled in him from a young age.
Raymond, the eldest, has had a passion for art since childhood. This interest led the business to diversify into fashion, incorporating their heritage, including Peranakan kebaya dresses. Over the years, in response to customer demand, he began experimenting with various designs, creating more intriguing kebaya with geometric patterns, floral designs, and unique cuts. He has also explored how to pair them with modern apparel, breathing new life into the tradition for the next generation.
Walking tour discovering Hainan’s roots, with a Hainanese guide by your side, make hands-on Hainan treats, where food and culture collide.
Walk through a village full of heart, where inclusion plays a part.
Narrated by Charmaine Leung, this tour explores her childhood in Singapore's red-light district and her mother’s brothel, shedding light on the lives of marginalized women.
Candles bloom, hearts make room, lenses zoom — illuminating lives, one candle at a time.