Sometimes, the heart of a city reveals itself through the people you meet and the stories they share. For me, Seoul came alive through an unexpected suggestion from a Moroccan soul based in Seoul, Zoubida which I met at Seoul Community Radio(SCR). She enthusiastically recommended a quirky spot she called the “Halmeoni” bar. Intrigued by the idea of a place where the barista is a grandmother—how charmingly unconventional!—I knew I had to see it for myself despite already having had my fair share of drinks and laughter earlier that night.
Seoul’s drinking culture is unlike anywhere else—it’s a nocturnal marathon that starts around 10 PM and stretches into the early hours. Party-goers pace themselves for the long haul, often staying out until the first metro of the morning because taxis are notoriously elusive. And so, despite my initial reluctance, I found myself wandering the lively streets of Itaewon for the first time.
My First Footsteps in Itaewon
Walking through the streets of Itaewon, just a short stroll from SCR towards the main happening area, we found ourselves delightfully lost while navigating toward our destination. The neighborhood unfolded like an open-air gallery, with graffiti art adorning walls and alleys. Each piece felt like a vibrant conversation, a window into the thoughts and emotions of those who’d passed through before us.
As we wandered, my eyes were constantly drawn to the scene around me. Though I knew Itaewon’s history as a neighborhood influenced by the American military presence nearby, the energy here was something else entirely. It felt electric, alive with individuality and freedom. The streets were a place where self-expression was embraced, and people felt free to walk to the beat of their own drum. Every corner seemed to hold a secret waiting to be discovered. It was chaotic in the best way possible—raw energy flowing through the streets as people dressed how they wanted, laughed loudly, and carried themselves with an unapologetic confidence that said, “I’m just here to be me.” It was the kind of place that invited you to let go of your inhibitions and soak it all in.
As I reflect on this adventure while writing this story, I can’t help but recall a moment that truly captured the essence of Itaewon. My local friend, SJ, took me to karaoke, where he performed Itaewon Freedom by JYP and UV. The upbeat rhythm and lyrics resonated deeply with me, mirroring the vibrant energy and individuality I felt while wandering the streets toward the Halmeoni bar. If you ever find yourself exploring Itaewon, give this song a listen—it might just become the soundtrack of your own adventure, echoing in your mind as you soak in the unique chaos of this neighborhood.
The Mysterious Halmeoni Bar- Grand Ole Opry
Finally, we arrived at Halmeoni Bar on Hooker’s Hill, marked by a sign featuring Mama Kim and her friends in cowboy hats, proudly proclaiming its legacy since 1975. My curiosity deepened—was this a relic of the past or a country music haven?
Inside, it was exactly what I had imagined—but also so much more. I wondered why Mama Kim named her bar ‘Grand Ole Opry’—but as I opened the door, the country music answered that question. The bar exuded a quirky charm, with money notes hanging from every inch of the walls and ceiling. At first glance, I couldn’t help but wonder: were these actual money notes?
The place felt like a treasure chest of memories—not just from Mama Kim herself, but from countless travelers. Each bill or money note carried its own story, a footprint left behind by someone passing through.
All drinks were delightfully affordable, starting at just 4,000 won, and most people were sipping from colorful buckets. While the drinks themselves weren’t exactly top-shelf, the fun of sharing oversized, vibrant buckets at a bargain price turned every sip into part of a lighthearted, unforgettable night.
It was was a wild, unexpected highlight of my night. Watching how things worked there was like stepping into a little universe with its own set of rules. A few observations stood out:
- Pay First, Questions Later
Drinks are affordable, but payment happens instantly. Mama Kim, the powerhouse behind the bar, swoops in with a no-nonsense attitude. It’s efficient, almost like she’s running a only-woman operation fueled by pride and precision. - Mama Kim: The Guardian of Fun
If you’ve had one too many and start acting out, Mama Kim is on it. She’ll shuffle you out the door faster than a mom dragging a tantrum-throwing kid from the supermarket. It’s all love, though—she just knows how to keep things from spiraling out of control.
The bar itself has been around since 1975, originally catering to American soldiers stationed nearby. Now, the crowd is a glorious mix: queer folks, old-timers, expats, immigrants, and party crews. It’s chaotic in the best way, with Mama Kim standing tall behind a curtain of hanging money notes.
And those notes? They’re not just decorations. I asked Mama Kim about them, and she said, “Soldiers leave money their first time here, then return to add more—or take it back. It’s their way of leaving a piece of themselves.” It’s poetic, really—a physical reminder of all the people who’ve passed through and left their mark.
The night was pure joy. I danced to country music (some I knew, most I didn’t) with friends from Morocco, Chile, South Korea, and the States. Buckets of drinks were passed around, and for a moment, it felt like the world shrank to that tiny, buzzing bar.
Talking to Mama Kim, I could feel the weight of her history. She told me how much she appreciates what the U.S. did for Korea, and it hit me—this isn’t just a bar. It’s her way of holding on to something bigger than herself, something deeply personal yet universal.
The next day, curiosity got the better of me, and I dove deeper into Mama Kim’s story and the history of her bar. It’s astounding how much life and history are packed into that little space—and why she carries herself with such a tough, no-nonsense demeanor. But why? What shaped her rules and character?
I came across a short film that dives into her world, offering a glimpse into the experiences and stories that molded Mama Kim. This film might just help you understand the heart of her bar and the spirit of the remarkable woman behind it.
What’s kept Mama Kim going for 49 years?
Mama Kim sees every traveler who steps into her bar as one of her own children—and today, she welcomed another from Malaysia.
